Ring of Brodgar - User contributions [en]

Liberty Caps

2026-05-27T07:52:21Z

Xyzzy: new info on liberty cap dosage to get "totally high".

{{infobox metaobj
| xitem = 1
| yitem = 1
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Foraging]]
| producedby = Hand
| terrain = [[terrain::Bounty Acre]], [[terrain::Grass]], [[terrain::Leaf Patch]], [[terrain::Lush Field]], [[terrain::Ox Pasture]]
| specific = Any Mushroom, Edible Mushroom
|
| perexp = 1500
|
| energy = 300
| hunger = 0.5
| psy = 0.5
|
| sat1 = Forage
}}

[[Category:Forageable Plants]]
[[Category:Foraged Foods]]

Liberty Caps can be eaten by right clicking on them and selecting the "Eat" option. This [[:Category:Foods|food]] restores 300% of the [[energy]] bar and gives 0,5 [[Psyche]] in [[FEP]]s.

Furthermore, when eaten raw {{PAGENAME}} you get [[Buff#The Mind Liberated|The Mind Liberated]] buff, which buff [[Psyche]] and decrease [[Agility]]. At one time (maybe still), at least 10 basic quality Liberty Caps were needed to get "crazy high" - however, it only took me two at Q122 and Q 109 to get "totally high" (presumably the same thing) in world 16. The buff goes off fast so eat them in one go.

==Photosensitivity Warning==
Right after eating Liberty Caps, and occasionally while affected by "The Mind Liberated" will cause flashing lights to appear on screen. These simulate psychedelic hallucinations. Frequency and intensity of effects scales with the buff amount.

=Notes=
To gain the "The Mind Liberated" effect {{PAGENAME}} must be consumed in a way which grants the character [[FEP]]s which means consuming them while at high enough energy or using a feast option at table.

==Gallery==

<gallery>
Liberty Caps_ingame.png | Liberty Caps in-game.
Liberty Caps_in_Garden_Pot.png | Liberty Caps in Garden Pot.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2026-02-27T18:48:12Z

Xyzzy: /* Notes */ Added ability to restore decayed mound beds, from Thatched Totem update

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xobst = 1.844
| yobst = 2.788
|
| skillreq = {{unknown}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Farming & Animals|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field, trellis crops, and garden pots do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) During the winter season autumn stage is maintained for already planted trees & bushes, and newly planted trees & bushes are forced into autumn mode. (''Already planted trees & bushes in other season stages will not be turned to autumn stage by the mound bed (''unless its autumn season -> 3c''). This includes moved bushes.)

3a) In the summer season the mound bed has no effect. All trees and bushes will (slowly) turn to their summer mode.

3b) If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree and bush growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees or bushes planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your trees/bushes on the first day of spring, before replanting, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (''Or maybe not, if the particular tree/bush species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.'')

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

3c) Mound beds placed in summer, which continue into autumn, do not prevent trees from going to their autumn foliage, and thus can be presumed not to prevent seasonal effects on what the trees produce. I.e. a tree that doesn't produce seeds in autumn can't be tricked into thinking it's still summer.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] (i.e. herbs) can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted ([[softcap|softcapped]] by farming). This can be quite useful.

The harvested amount varies between 5 to 14 herbs. (''potentially 4..16'')

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has a special hitbox. I that it allows to be walks/traveled over (''Character, Cart, wagon''). And it also allows to put liftable objects on top of it. But it blocks building anything on top of it ("That site is occupied."). This included creating stockpiles on them (''those are not true liftable objects'').
** You can plow & farm or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A decayed mound bed with herbs growing in it will not disappear until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and disappear on its own.
**'''Decayed Mound beds directly lose their effect'''. For trees & bushes that means they will start to switch to the current active season. Crops protected by such a mound bed will wither.
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.
* Mound beds effectively decay after about ~{{time|G&R|60|0|0}}). Which means those planted at the beginning of autumn will decay midway in spring. '''Beware of the Christmas season, when devs frequently lengthen autumn so as to have real world Christmas fall during haven winter.''' In that situation, your mound beds may decay while it's still winter.
* (tech) When the mound bed effects it removed (in early spring)(destroyed/decayed) trees & bushes in autumn mode quickly switch to winter mode first, to than normally switch to spring mode like the other trees & bushes).
* Collecting the yield from a Mound Bed counts towards "Harvest X" -quests from a Gardener Credo, the same as Garden Pots.
* As of the Thatched Totem update (26 Feb 2026) "You can now restore decayed "Mound Bed"s by simply dumping "Mulch" on them (hold Mulch and right-click). Don't quite know what we were thinking in enforcing a re-build every winter."
** It takes 12 mulch per decayed mound bed, and you also have to water it before re-planting.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png | Mound Bed bounding box. (2.8 x 1.8 tiles)
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Talk:Shrimp Skewer

2025-12-06T22:01:13Z

Xyzzy: Created page with "In world 16.1, Cooking was sufficient to get this recipe, having discovered all its ingredients."

In world 16.1, Cooking was sufficient to get this recipe, having discovered all its ingredients.

Talk:Tree

2025-07-25T16:52:58Z

Xyzzy: /* (Soft)Capping Tree Quality */

{{Softdelete_box|20210701014544}}

==Tree Heath Tree==

IG(''I Guess'') these tree's products are referred to as "Briarwood", not uhh
Tree Heath Tree. Might need some changing around of information. {{Unsigned|WowGain|26 November 2020‎}}

:Where there some related in-game name changes ?
:Are you actually reading MW-talk replies ? (''I mentioned something about how to properly sign talk posts last time'').
:--[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 09:09, 26 November 2020 (UTC)

:>Tree Heath Blocks are referred to as Block of Briarwood ingame.
:Seems that part completely bypassed me. Not sure about potential solutions. (''Hm, where did put that seed ...'') --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 19:48, 29 January 2021 (UTC)

: Not sure about also renaming/moving the "Tree Heath Tree" page to "Briarwood Tree", ... due to the seed using "Tree Heath".
:(''would fix the block & board part on the page'')
:--[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 13:02, 7 February 2021 (UTC)

==Native biomes (Mayflower)==

[[Red Plain]], at least near where I live, has plenty of Mayflower Trees. Note that in a later world (the case while writing this) Mayflower Trees might become depleted as they're chopped down for their peculiar wood. 
--[[User:Vatas|Vatas]] ([[User talk:Vatas|talk]]) 09:30, 17 December 2020 (UTC)

:Think I got 'some' Red Plains nearby I can check out. Although those are probably already heavily grazed by players already. ''To bad Ender is currently not showing ground data.'' O yea, Where most of them not user-planted? --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 10:53, 17 December 2020 (UTC)

::They aren't planted by players, they all gave q10 seeds and can't be inspected. That was a valid question though, and that thing about inspection should probably be mentioned somewhere. --[[User:Vatas|Vatas]] ([[User talk:Vatas|talk]]) 14:05, 17 December 2020 (UTC)

:::Somewhere [[Tree#Notes|it is]]. ;) --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 19:31, 17 December 2020 (UTC)

==Laurel Tree==

In World 13, I can confirm that Laurel Trees are found in the Ox Pasture, but have yet to find any in Wald or Red Plain. I have not visited the other areas.
Has anyone seen the Laurel Tree in the other listed areas (Dry Flat, Red Plain, Wald, Shady Copse, Sour Timber)? --[[User:Orionbeta|Orionbeta]] ([[User talk:Orionbeta|talk]]) 16:57, 26 April 2021 (UTC)

Also not seen any Laurel in: Highground, Sombre Bramble, (Dry Weald, Lichen Wold, Pine Barren). ''()=>Not truly scanned nearby terrains''.

== Found On ... ==

When to (or not) linkup a particular tree with a particular terrain advisory guide lines. 
*Using the fixed visible-objects area to do spot-checks is probably best. 
*Generally ignoring/skipping terrain patched that are more or less not filling the visible-objects area. (''probably needs a custom client for this'') 
The easy cases are of course tree's that are clearly plenty-full on a given terrain. 
So where left with the not so clear cases. The bottom case being:
* Seeing a particular tree, even just one per visible-objects area, in different patches at different locations (''same terrain-type of course''). "Linkup"
For the truly randomly placed trees without any preferred terrain. Which should stand out in not complying to that bottom case, and in doing so for whatever terrain there found on. "Don't linkup" 
... I guess one could add some general frequency indication to this (''general visible-objects area tree-count''). "(~1)".."(~2)" ie: sparse...kinda sparse, "(3+)" generally available. "(6+)" plentiful. 

O yea. Be wary about trees near terrain borders and active of decayed away claims.

--[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 10:59, 24 August 2022 (UTC)

== Growth vs Logs ==
{{outdated|This data is based on world 15. World 16 has a new tree feature that changes things.}}
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Logs vs Tree growth table.
! Max//Out !!1!!2!!3!!4
|-
!1
|≥ 50.00%||---
|-
!2
|≥ 25.0%||≥ 75.0%||---||---
|-
!3
|≥ 16.6̅%||≥ 50.0%||≥ 83.3̅%||---
|-
!4
|≥ 12.5%||≥ 37.5%||≥ 62.5%||≥ 87.5%
|}
* These values don't translate well to what the game reports. One problem (Ender client) is that two values are reported for tree growth, one on screen and one in system-chat, which can have different values. System chat can be the same as the screen value (''so far only seen for n*10 values ...''), or it reports a screen+1 value.
-- (''example: A king oak at 12/13 growth dropped 3 branches instead of a log. Options: 1) its >12.5% instead of ≥12.5%, ... what values are pushed to the client(?)'')

Note that chopping down a growing tree can give logs that returns more than the standard blocks per log for that tree. 
Example: While a full grown beech tree will return two logs, each log containing 50% of the maximum blocks for the beech. But a beech at 70.5% growth will only return one log, that log now contains 70.5% of the tree maximum blocks. 
--[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 17:48, 26 February 2024 (UTC)

== Growth level vs Damage ==
* The damage a mature tree receives depends on the used axe. ([[Stone Axe]]/[[Tinker's Throwing Axe]]: 2%/hit, [[Metal Axe]]: 2.5%/hit, [[Woodsman's Axe]]: '''?'''%/hit)
** Character strength and axe quality don't mater in this. (''?:Woodsman's Axe - assuming the same)'')
* The damage to growing trees scale linear to its growth level. So at 50% growth a stone axe will do 4% damage, and 100% damage at 2% growth.
** ''Either growing trees have less hit-points, or the applied damage is scaled up. (probably the last, although it makes no effective difference.)''
* Tree damage is permanent and will not change on its own. For both mature and growing trees. (''there might be some exception, unless I just forgot to pre-chop one tree.'')
** No side effects seen so far on final tree produced resources for damaged/pre-chopped trees.
Ergo: Its possible to get rid of a large part of the tree hit-points early in its growing phase. (''but with the risk of accidentally copping it down for real ofc. So keep a save margin when doing this.'')

<math>ChopDamage = \frac{100}{GrowthValue}*ToolValue</math>
* System-chat displayed growth value advised.
* ''Trees with same growth level can give slightly different damage progressions. ie: Game displays some rounded value of the actual used value.''

<math>SaveThreshold = Floor(100 - ChopDamage - 1)</math>
* Maximum damage at which point one should stop chopping to keep the tree.

==== Calc Test (Edit & Preview only) ====
SaveThreshold: {{#expr: floor(100-1 - ((100/{{{Growth| 10 }}})*{{{Tool| 4 }}}) )}}

== (Soft)Capping Tree Quality ==
I've been told that if someone with all the skills puts a tree on the herb table, but when mature someone with low farming takes it off and plants it, it will be capped or softcapped by their farming skill. I think this would be worth explaining - especially if someone has good data - because these things do happen - e.g. someone logs on to the wrong alt. Also, I find that I currently *want* to plant some trees with the lowest Q I can manage, but have a shortage of low q seeds of the right type. I might not be the only crazy person who wants to do this.

I did some testing, and it appears that when a character with farming 10 plants a Q 25 sapling, from a treepot prepared by a far better farmer, then examines the 0% sapling, it is reported to be Q 25. I.e. the information above, which I added yesterday, is either out of date or just plain wrong.

I'll keep an eye on the saplings as they mature, in case they lose Q as they grow, but since they aren't on claimed land, and are located where people are likely to need wood, they may not live to maturity.

[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]])

Talk:Tree

2025-07-25T01:39:00Z

Xyzzy: added section about rumored way to cap or softcap the q of planted trees.

Spinning Wheel

2025-06-19T00:23:06Z

Xyzzy: added warning that spinning wheels degrade outdoors, after finding mine at 50%

{{infobox metaobj
| xobst = 0.526
| yobst = 0.89
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Sewing]], [[requires::Wheelwrighting]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Block of Wood]] x5, [[requires::Board]] x4, [[requires::String]] x4
| repwith = [[Block of Wood]]
|
| lift = Yes
}}

[[Category:Crafting Tools]]

{{GM|$Build|$Workstations & Utilities|Spinning $Wheel}}

The spinning wheel is used to make [[Silk Thread]] and [[Yarn]].

==Notes==

*Spinning wheel quality affects quality of products produced by it.
*Using the wheel can trigger the xp event "Pricked by the spindle". Any item made with the string will carry over the "memories of pain" tooltip. It has no gameplay effect.
* Spinning wheels, like looms, can take damage if left outdoors on a claim. Put it in a building.

==Quality==

Spinning Wheel Quality = <math>\frac{_{q}AvgBlock + _{q}AvgBoard + _{q}AvgString}{3}</math>

Material Quality = <math>\frac{_{q}AvgMaterial * 3 + _{q}SpinningWheel}{4}</math>

[[softcap|softcapped]] by <math>\sqrt {DEX*Sewing}</math>

{{Game Development}}

Talk:Garden Pot

2025-06-15T05:14:47Z

Xyzzy: stalagoom time observations

Does anyone have an exact firing time for the garden pots? It looks like it takes a full load of fuel.

== Time needs confirmation notes ==

Maybe we should use a discussion section for temporary notes such as "Time needs confirmation, more than 2 days has been observed" since the notes section
seems to be created for extra information rather then them. Also, it would remove the problem with interpreting the note - it is not clear whether the note
is about indoors, outdoors or cave environment.

Luanes : I agreee with you, I'm pretty new using wiki and such. Still, i was taking my own notes about timers for garden pots ( tested with clover, chives, yarrow, neetle and stalagoom). I'm starting to think that timers may vary depending on biome or region on map.

I guess we should increase more one column on the table as "max observed and min".

=== Badly Wrong Time for Stalagooms ===

The 3.5 days stalagooms are supposed to take has reached 5.0. I think - I wasn't recording carefully, just relying on the estimate here to decide whether or not to wait for a "harvest stalagoom" quest from gardener credo. World 16. Note that I'm using actual garden pots, not mound beds - mound beds seem to consistently take longer than the predictions on these pages, but that's not my problem this time.

== Fuel required after last patch (Studded Rabit) was reduced ==

I was able to finish burning my pot after less than 112 minutes using 23 branches. Not sure if 22 branches would be enough, but probably not.

== Plant base value. ==

To find the plant base-value for a given pot+soil+water combination, use the general quality formula with the plant data removed. 
ie: <math>\frac{_{q}Garden Pot*10+ _{q}Earth+ _{q}Water}{20-8}</math> 
Any plant with a quality above this base value will decreases in q towards that base value, and any q below it will increase towards it. (''after which softcapping comes into play'') 
--[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 09:08, 20 October 2020 (UTC)

== Tansy ==
For some reason i cant be logged in on Tansy.png page so can't start a talk page or move it. (Maybe some VPN problems).

MvGulik can i ask you to rename file Tansy.png to Tansy_in_Garden_Pot.png --[[User:Kitsuneg|Kitsuneg]] ([[User talk:Kitsuneg|talk]]) 17:26, 1 December 2024 (UTC)

:Yea I saw it. But at this moment ... I run into the same problem (''Its a Cloudflare think. Spiff is looking into it''). <s>It might be prevented, by opening the new images-page before opening the page that uses/shows that image</s>. But when its triggered the only thing to do is wait (4+ hours :-/ ). --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 18:57, 1 December 2024 (UTC)

Wilderness Skis

2025-04-13T21:43:56Z

Xyzzy: /* Notes */

{{infobox metaobj
| xitem = 1
| yitem = 1
| xobst = 0.43
| yobst = 1.493
|
| skillreq = none
| discoveryreq = [[snow]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x2, [[requires::Prepared Animal Hide]] x2, [[requires::String]] x2
| repwith = [[Board]]
|
| lift = Yes
| varmaterials = Yes
|
| slot = 8R
}}

{{GM|$Build|$Vehicles & Movables|Wi$lderness Skis}}

Wooden skis that can be carried in your inventory or on your backpack slot.

==Usage==

To hop on your skis, drop them from the inventory onto a ground tile, then right-click on the skis and select "Ski off". To jump of the skis you can press Ctrl+left-click in the direction you wish to exit. Right-clicking the skis while mounted and selecting "Pick up" is also possible to dismount them.

You will move at crawling speed on non-snow/ice tiles. You can select your speed up to sprinting on snow or ice. Running speed will not consume any stamina, sprinting speed will consume it rapidly.

Unlike the [[Kicksled]], your speed is the same on snow and ice tiles.

==Notes==

* You won't have this recipe until you discover snow.
* Just like with horses. For entering houses, while on skis, one will need to come in at a near 90 degree angle. (''<del>leaving the skis at the door allows direct exit after remounting them</del> - Unfortunately mounting skis indoors fixes the speed to a crawl. Which persists when going outside for at least 1.5 tiles around 'any' building. But can extend to ~8 tiles in some cases.'')

* Bandy towards a player on wilderness skis don't works. But a player on skis can bandy a player that's not on skis.

* A player on skis can's operate a Wheelbarrow. (''assume similar limitations here like while on a [[horse]] or [[kicksled]]'')

* A player on skis makes no moving sounds ... at all. (''annoyingly silent'')

* Skis, like riding horses, appear to block feeding clover to an animal.

==Appearance==

The appearance of the skis is dictated by the [[Variable Materials|materials used]].

[[File:Variableskis.png|frame|left|20px|Skis made from Plane (Left) and Alder (Right)]]

 

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2025-04-03T19:19:14Z

Xyzzy: /* Season Changing Effects */

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xobst = 1.844
| yobst = 2.788
|
| skillreq = {{unknown}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Farming & Animals|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field, trellis crops, and garden pots do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) During the winter season autumn stage is maintained for already planted trees & bushes, and newly planted trees and bushes are forced into autumn mode. (''Already planted trees (& Bushes) in other season stages will not be turned to autumn stage by the mound bed (partial verified)'')

3a) In the summer season the mound bed has no effect. All trees and bushes will (slowly) turn to their summer mode.

3b) If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree and bush growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees or bushes planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your trees/bushes on the first day of spring, before replanting, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree/bush species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

3c) Mound beds placed in summer, which continue into autumn, do not prevent trees from going to their autumn foliage, and thus can be presumed not to prevent seasonal effects on what the trees produce. I.e. a tree that doesn't produce seeds in autumn can't be tricked into thinking it's still summer.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] (i.e. herbs) can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted ([[softcap|softcapped]] by farming). This can be quite useful.

The harvested amount varies between 5 to 14 herbs. (''potentially 4..16'')

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has a special hitbox. I that it allows to be walks/traveled over (''Character, Cart, wagon''). And it also allows to put liftable objects on top of it. But it blocks building anything on top of it ("That site is occupied."). This included creating stockpiles on them (''those are not true liftable objects'').
** You can plow & farm or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A decayed mound bed with herbs growing in it will not disappear until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and disappear on its own.
**'''Decayed Mound beds directly lose their effect'''. For trees & bushes that means they will start to switch to the current active season. Crops protected by such a mound bed will wither.

* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

* <s>Trees (or bushes) inside a mound bed range will stay in there current season state. So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'').</s>(''winter part needs to be rechecked'')

*Mound beds effectively decay after about ~{{time|G&R|60|0|0}}). Which means those planted at the beginning of autumn will decay midway in spring. '''Beware of the Christmas season, when devs frequently lengthen autumn so as to have real world Christmas fall during haven winter.''' In that situation, your mound beds may decay while it's still winter.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png | Mound Bed bounding box. (2.8 x 1.8 tiles)
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2025-04-03T19:18:56Z

Xyzzy: /* Season Changing Effects */

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xobst = 1.844
| yobst = 2.788
|
| skillreq = {{unknown}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Farming & Animals|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field, trellis crops, and garden pots do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) During the winter season autumn stage is maintained for already planted trees & bushes, and newly planted trees and bushes are forced into autumn mode. (''Already planted trees (& Bushes) in other season stages will not be turned to autumn stage by the mound bed (partial verified)'')

3a) In the summer season the mound bed has no effect. All trees and bushes will (slowly) turn to there summer mode.

3b) If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree and bush growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees or bushes planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your trees/bushes on the first day of spring, before replanting, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree/bush species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

3c) Mound beds placed in summer, which continue into autumn, do not prevent trees from going to their autumn foliage, and thus can be presumed not to prevent seasonal effects on what the trees produce. I.e. a tree that doesn't produce seeds in autumn can't be tricked into thinking it's still summer.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] (i.e. herbs) can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted ([[softcap|softcapped]] by farming). This can be quite useful.

The harvested amount varies between 5 to 14 herbs. (''potentially 4..16'')

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has a special hitbox. I that it allows to be walks/traveled over (''Character, Cart, wagon''). And it also allows to put liftable objects on top of it. But it blocks building anything on top of it ("That site is occupied."). This included creating stockpiles on them (''those are not true liftable objects'').
** You can plow & farm or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A decayed mound bed with herbs growing in it will not disappear until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and disappear on its own.
**'''Decayed Mound beds directly lose their effect'''. For trees & bushes that means they will start to switch to the current active season. Crops protected by such a mound bed will wither.

* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

* <s>Trees (or bushes) inside a mound bed range will stay in there current season state. So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'').</s>(''winter part needs to be rechecked'')

*Mound beds effectively decay after about ~{{time|G&R|60|0|0}}). Which means those planted at the beginning of autumn will decay midway in spring. '''Beware of the Christmas season, when devs frequently lengthen autumn so as to have real world Christmas fall during haven winter.''' In that situation, your mound beds may decay while it's still winter.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png | Mound Bed bounding box. (2.8 x 1.8 tiles)
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Moose

2025-03-27T23:38:33Z

Xyzzy: Added a missing spawn terrain in a new errata section, since I don't know how to modify the incorrect infobox.

{{infobox creature
| xobst = {{#expr:(6/11)-(-6/11)round6}}
| yobst = {{#expr:(10/11)-(-10/11)round6}}
|
| deadly = yes
|
| baseq = 50
|
| armor = 65
| hp = 800
| fhp = ~800
|
| loot = [[Fresh Moose Hide]] x2, [[Intestines]] x4, [[Entrails]] x3, [[Animal Fat]], [[Raw Moose]] x14, [[Bone Material]] x10, [[Moose Antlers]] x1
}}

[[Category:Tmp_xyobj(neg)]]

The moose or elk, is the largest and heaviest extant species in the Deer family. They are notorious for their extreme size and strength, as well as their intimidating intelligence, as moose are known to attempt to drown their victims, and short of that will try to crush their ribcage and lungs.

= Errata =

I've repeatedly observed Moose in Green Brake, so I presume they spawn there. Someone who understand the mysteries of templates might want to add this to the info box.

=Combat=

==Behaviour==
Moose are aggressive and have a decent chance to [[execute]] you if they KO you.

===Combat Moves===
{| class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
! '''Attacks'''
! '''Restorations'''
|-
|
{{:Low Horn Swipe}}{{:Mule Kick}}{{:Thunder Over}}{{:Bucking}}{{:Blood & Gore}}{{:Heavy Antlers}}{{:Breathing Rage}}{{:Dark Heart Move}}
|
{{:Rampant Rage}}{{:Unstoppable}}{{:Careful Approach}}{{:Bristle}}
|}

==Strategy==
Ride a horse so you can kite the Moose. You will need about 100+ Melee Combat and 100 Agility to deal damage and keep yourself safe in the fight.

=In-Game Example(s)=
[[File:{{PAGENAME}}-dead.png|150px]] Dead {{PAGENAME}}. Can be skinned for [[Fresh {{PAGENAME}} Hide]]. 
[[File:{{PAGENAME}}-skinned.png|150px]] Skinned {{PAGENAME}}. Can be butchered for [[Intestines]], [[Entrails]], [[Animal Fat]] and [[Raw Moose]]. 
[[File:{{PAGENAME}}-skeleton.png|150px]] {{PAGENAME}} Skeleton. Can be collected for [[Moose Antlers]] and [[Bone Material]]. 

{{Game Development|1}}

Archery Target

2025-03-22T22:52:40Z

Xyzzy: Placing discovery information, and what I know about recipe location, as text on the main page, since I haven't been initiated into the mysteries of templates.

{{infobox metaobj
| xobst = 0.89
| yobst = 0.981
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Archery]]
| discovereq = [Arrow]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x6, [[requires::Block]] x8, [[requires::String]] x4
| repwith = [[Board]]
|
| lift = Yes
}}

{{GM|$Build|$Archery Target}}

An {{PAGENAME}} is a small building used to practice [[Archery]] and test your [[Marksmanship]]. Firing arrows at an Archery Target from any distance results in points being displayed alongside the target if the arrow connects. The points are displayed as a rudimentary scoring system in the event you want to compete with friends.

Every {{PAGENAME}} has its own inventory in the form of a 5x5 grid that can, theoretically, hold hundreds of arrows. Multiple arrows can be present on one tile, and removing one will result in underlying arrows being revealed. Arrows cannot, however, be stored in the target naturally; Every arrow must be fired at the target to be stored in its inventory.

The {{PAGENAME}} can also be used to 'craft' the [[Arrow-Shattered Arrow]] curiosity if two non-consecutive bullseyes land on the same target.

==Errata==
You need to have made an arrow to have this recipe available, and it won't be in the location described at the top of this page. I don't know *where* Jorb/Loftar have moved the recipe, but you can get to it via an action search feature. I tried to add the discovery information to the info box, but was unable to guess the correct format/syntax for the template.

==Notes==

* Although a {{PAGENAME}} can be lifted, it can't be stored inside a [[Wagon]] or [[Garden Shed]].
* In order to get credit for a bullseye for the Hunter [[credo]] quest you must be at least 7 tiles away from the {{PAGENAME}}.
** Since arrows are aimed at the tile you click on, the easiest way to score a bulls-eye is to '''click on the tile the target is placed on''', i.e. the tile below it. Placing the target exactly on a tile, as well as entering a bird's eye view via the :cam bad console command can this easier.
**If using the Ender client, switch the camera options to the option named 'bad', and then aim directly at the bullseye.

{{Game Development}}

Archery Target

2025-03-22T22:48:02Z

Xyzzy: Attempted to add discovery req. No results shown in preview; apparantly that's a feature of templates. So maybe I guessed the syntax right, or maybe not.

{{infobox metaobj
| xobst = 0.89
| yobst = 0.981
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Archery]]
| discovereq = [Arrow]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x6, [[requires::Block]] x8, [[requires::String]] x4
| repwith = [[Board]]
|
| lift = Yes
}}

{{GM|$Build|$Archery Target}}

An {{PAGENAME}} is a small building used to practice [[Archery]] and test your [[Marksmanship]]. Firing arrows at an Archery Target from any distance results in points being displayed alongside the target if the arrow connects. The points are displayed as a rudimentary scoring system in the event you want to compete with friends.

Every {{PAGENAME}} has its own inventory in the form of a 5x5 grid that can, theoretically, hold hundreds of arrows. Multiple arrows can be present on one tile, and removing one will result in underlying arrows being revealed. Arrows cannot, however, be stored in the target naturally; Every arrow must be fired at the target to be stored in its inventory.

The {{PAGENAME}} can also be used to 'craft' the [[Arrow-Shattered Arrow]] curiosity if two non-consecutive bullseyes land on the same target.

==Notes==

* Although a {{PAGENAME}} can be lifted, it can't be stored inside a [[Wagon]] or [[Garden Shed]].
* In order to get credit for a bullseye for the Hunter [[credo]] quest you must be at least 7 tiles away from the {{PAGENAME}}.
** Since arrows are aimed at the tile you click on, the easiest way to score a bulls-eye is to '''click on the tile the target is placed on''', i.e. the tile below it. Placing the target exactly on a tile, as well as entering a bird's eye view via the :cam bad console command can this easier.
**If using the Ender client, switch the camera options to the option named 'bad', and then aim directly at the bullseye.

{{Game Development}}

Talk:Archery Target

2025-03-22T22:45:26Z

Xyzzy: Add information that should be on the page, since I don't anticipate being able to update it if there's a template involved.

World 16. My toon had made a hunter's bow and a quiver, and shot several arrows, but never made any arrows. No recipe for Archery target.

I made a bone arrow, complete with discovery. Still no recipe where the wiki page *claims* it would be. (Top level within build menu.)

But now I can find the recipe via the lit candle icon near the bottom of the client screen, right of where you type in chat. (Tooltip says "Search actions...".)

This page needs updating with this information, including the part I haven't found.

--[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]]) 22:45, 22 March 2025 (UTC)

Talk:Rabbit Hutch

2025-02-24T06:39:35Z

Xyzzy:

== Bunny maturing speed. ==

It seems to me the quality of the food, and/or the bunny quality, affects the maturing speed of bunnies. In a nutshell, at high quality two maturing-hutches work well. At low quality two maturing-hutches are quickly filling up with no room to spare for maturing bunnies. (''think the same applies to crop maturing times, but I have no strong example data on this'') --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 10:51, 18 May 2022 (UTC)

<del>A additional observed side effect is that a Rabbit Hutch filled with low quality rabbits consumes 'slightly'~(1/30) more food over time than a hutch with high quality rabbits. (''needles to say that the used food & water in these cases have the same high vs low quality difference.'')</del> --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 09:44, 6 July 2022 (UTC)
:It took some time to see the opposite happen (''not using strict test setup's here''). Ergo: In this case its just rabbit/bunny-flow related. --[[User_talk:MvGulik|.MvGulik.]] 11:16, 15 July 2022 (UTC)

== Requirements ==

It needs Carpentry as well as Animal Husbandry. I'd fix this myself but, alas, there's a template involved, which makes it extremely non-obvious how to make the simplest of changes.

--[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]]) 06:39, 24 February 2025 (UTC)

Bullfinch Hen

2025-02-08T22:48:07Z

Xyzzy: another terrain added to the list that isn't in the info box

{{infobox creature
| baseq = 10
|
| hp = 10
| fhp = 10
|
| loot = [[Dead Bullfinch]]: [[Bullfinch Feather]], [[Entrails]], [[Bullfinch Meat]], [[Bone Material]] or [[Wishbone]]
}}

It's a female Bullfinch. Male counterpart is the [[Bullfinch]].

Terrain found includes Ox Pasture and Root Bosk.

==Catching==

Bullfinch can easily be caught on horseback. Come at them from behind so that they won't flee in the direction of the water and then simply run after them.

== Gallery==
<gallery>
File:Bullfinch Hen.png|Female(hen) Bullfinch.
File:Bullfinch.png|Male Bullfinch.
</gallery>

([//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurasian_bullfinch The real deal.])

{{Game Development}}

Talk:Bullfinch Hen

2025-02-08T08:08:42Z

Xyzzy: Created page with "It appears to be impossible to correct/update terrain information in the infobox, which comes from a template. I found no mention of terrain in either this page's source or the template itself. Doubtless if I knew how templates worked I could fix the incorrect information. Since I don't, I put the information in the page text, along with a comment that the info box is incorrect. --~~~~"

It appears to be impossible to correct/update terrain information in the infobox, which comes from a template. I found no mention of terrain in either this page's source or the template itself. Doubtless if I knew how templates worked I could fix the incorrect information. Since I don't, I put the information in the page text, along with a comment that the info box is incorrect.

--[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]]) 08:08, 8 February 2025 (UTC)

Bullfinch Hen

2025-02-08T08:06:06Z

Xyzzy: added one of the many terrains it's actually in - as text, because I can't figure out how to edit the info box.

{{infobox creature
| baseq = 10
|
| hp = 10
| fhp = 10
|
| loot = [[Dead Bullfinch]]: [[Bullfinch Feather]], [[Entrails]], [[Bullfinch Meat]], [[Bone Material]] or [[Wishbone]]
}}

It's a female Bullfinch. Male counterpart is the [[Bullfinch]].

Terrain found includes Ox Pasture; don't believe the nonsense in the infobox.

==Catching==

Bullfinch can easily be caught on horseback. Come at them from behind so that they won't flee in the direction of the water and then simply run after them.

== Gallery==
<gallery>
File:Bullfinch Hen.png|Female(hen) Bullfinch.
File:Bullfinch.png|Male Bullfinch.
</gallery>

([//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurasian_bullfinch The real deal.])

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-12-25T16:08:41Z

Xyzzy: emphasized warnings about mound bed decay, noting the case where devs lengthen autumn leaving mound beds to die while it's still winter

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1.8
| ysize = 2.8
|
| skillreq = {{unknown}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Farming & Animals|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field, trellis crops, and garden pots do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) During the winter season autumn stage is maintained for already planted trees & bushes, and newly planted trees and bushes are forced into autumn mode. (''Already planted trees (& Bushes) in other season stages will not be turned to autumn stage by the mound bed (partial verified)'')

3b) In the summer season the mound bed has no effect. All trees and bushes will (slowly) turn to there summer mode.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree and bush growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees or bushes planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your trees/bushes on the first day of spring, before replanting, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree/bush species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] (i.e. herbs) can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted ([[softcap|softcapped]] by farming). This can be quite useful.

The harvested amount varies between 5 to 14 herbs. (''potentially 4..16'')

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has a special hitbox. I that it allows to be walks/traveled over (''Character, Cart, wagon''). And it also allows to put liftable objects on top of it. But it blocks building anything on top of it ("That site is occupied."). This included creating stockpiles on them (''those are not true liftable objects'').
** You can plow & farm or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A decayed mound bed with herbs growing in it will not disappear until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and disappear on its own.
**'''Decayed Mound beds directly lose their effect'''. For trees & bushes that means they will start to switch to the current active season. Crops protected by such a mound bed will wither.

* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

* <s>Trees (or bushes) inside a mound bed range will stay in there current season state. So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'').</s>(''winter part needs to be rechecked'')

*Mound beds effectively decay after about ~{{time|G&R|60|0|0}}). Which means those planted at the beginning of autumn will decay midway in spring. '''Beware of the Christmas season, when devs frequently lengthen autumn so as to have real world Christmas fall during haven winter.''' In that situation, your mound beds may decay while it's still winter.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box. (2.8 x 1.8 tiles)
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-12-25T16:05:35Z

Xyzzy:

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1.8
| ysize = 2.8
|
| skillreq = {{unknown}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Farming & Animals|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field, trellis crops, and garden pots do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) During the winter season autumn stage is maintained for already planted trees & bushes, and newly planted trees and bushes are forced into autumn mode. (''Already planted trees (& Bushes) in other season stages will not be turned to autumn stage by the mound bed (partial verified)'')

3b) In the summer season the mound bed has no effect. All trees and bushes will (slowly) turn to there summer mode.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree and bush growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees or bushes planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your trees/bushes on the first day of spring, before replanting, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree/bush species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] (i.e. herbs) can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted ([[softcap|softcapped]] by farming). This can be quite useful.

The harvested amount varies between 5 to 14 herbs. (''potentially 4..16'')

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has a special hitbox. I that it allows to be walks/traveled over (''Character, Cart, wagon''). And it also allows to put liftable objects on top of it. But it blocks building anything on top of it ("That site is occupied."). This included creating stockpiles on them (''those are not true liftable objects'').
** You can plow & farm or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A decayed mound bed with herbs growing in it will not disappear until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and disappear on its own.
**Decayed Mound beds directly lose their effect. For trees & bushes that means they will start to switch to the current active season. Crops protected by such a mound bed will wither.

* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

* <s>Trees (or bushes) inside a mound bed range will stay in there current season state. So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'').</s>(''winter part needs to be rechecked'')

*Mound beds effectively decay after about ~{{time|G&R|60|0|0}}). Which means those planted at the beginning of autumn will decay midway in spring.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box. (2.8 x 1.8 tiles)
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Sleigh

2024-12-23T05:21:45Z

Xyzzy: noted that you need to discover snow to get this recipe

{{infobox metaobj
| image = file:Sleigh.jpg
|
| xsize = 4
| ysize = 2
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Metal Working]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x15, [[requires::Block of Wood]] x20, [[requires::Bar of Any Metal]] x2, [[requires::Cloth]] x2, [[requires::Bone Glue]] x2
| repwith = [[Cloth]]
|
| lift = No
| sthp = -2 
| soak = -1 
}}

[[Category:Special Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Vehicles & Movables|Sl$eigh}}

A Sleigh is a vechile pulled by a draft animal, not seldom a Reindeer, which can take two passengers and a cargo~jorb

A Sleigh can hold up 4 liftable items (such as containers or constructions) and two passengers and travel at high speed at snow and ice, crawl speed on any other surface. It is therefore best used in Winter when snow and ice are plentiful.

==Usage==

Grab a [[Rope]] on your cursor and right click a draft animal. Now right click the Sleigh with the rope. (You can put the rope in your inventory between the steps if animal is far away from Sleigh, right clicking the rope gives you option "pull" to make animal try to come closer to you if needed.)

==Speed==

* Speed with [[Cattle]] - ?? tiles per second at snow and ice, ?? tiles per second at others.
* Speed with [[Horses]] - ?? tiles per second at snow and ice, ?? tiles per second at others.
* Speed with [[Tame Reindeer]] (known is the most faster) - 10,1 tiles per second at snow and ice, ?? tiles per second at others.

==Appearance==
The appearance of the Sleigh is dictated by the [[Variable Materials|materials used]].

==Notes==

* You need to discover snow to get this recipe.

{{Game Development}}

Kicksled

2024-12-23T05:20:03Z

Xyzzy: noted that you need to discover snow to get this recipe.

{{infobox metaobj
| xsize = 2
| ysize = 1
|
| skillreq = [[requires::Metal Working]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x6, [[requires::Block of Wood]] x4, [[requires::Bar of Any Metal]] x2
| repwith = [[Nugget of Any Metal]]
|
| lift = Yes
| sthp = -2
| soak = 1
}}

{{GM|$Build|$Vehicles & Movables|Kick$sled}}

Build it, and zip-zap around on snow and ice. Slow elsewhere. Unsure of the PvP implications, but I guess we'll find out! The kicksled takes one passenger or object. ~jorb

A Kicksled can hold up one liftable items (such as containers or constructions) and travel at running speed on snow and sprinting speed on ice, crawl speed on any other surface. It is therefore best used in Winter when snow and ice are plentiful.

==Usage==

To board a kicksled , right-click on it. When you are ready to leave the kicksled, you must press Ctrl+left-click in the direction you wish to get out.

==Appearance==
The appearance of the sled is dictated by the [[Variable Materials|materials used]].

==Notes==

*You need to discover snow to get this recipe.
*If you travel to your Hearth Fire while riding a Kicksled, the Kicksled will be left behind. You can bring it home with you by Lifting it before traveling to your hearth fire.

==Gallery==

<gallery>
Kicksled_ingame_1.png | Riding an empty kicksled.
Kicksled_ingame_2.png | Riding with a cargo.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Wilderness Skis

2024-12-23T05:19:03Z

Xyzzy: Noted that you need to discover snow to get this recipe.

{{infobox metaobj
| xsize = 2
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = {{none}}
| objectsreq = [[requires::Board]] x2, [[requires::Prepared Animal Hide]] x2, [[requires::String]] x2
| repwith = [[Board]]
|
| lift = Yes
| varmaterials = Yes
| slot = 8R
}}

{{GM|$Build|$Vehicles & Movables|Wi$lderness Skis}}

Wooden skis that can be carried in your inventory or on your backpack slot.

==Usage==

To hop on your skis, drop them from the inventory onto a ground tile, then right-click on the skis and select "Ski off". To jump of the skis you can press Ctrl+left-click in the direction you wish to exit. Right-clicking the skis while mounted and selecting "Pick up" is also possible to dismount them.

You will move at crawling speed on non-snow/ice tiles. You can select your speed up to sprinting on snow or ice. Running speed will not consume any stamina, sprinting speed will consume it rapidly.

Unlike the [[Kicksled]], your speed is the same on snow and ice tiles.

==Notes==

* You won't have this recipe until you discover snow.
* Just like with horses. For entering houses, while on skis, one will need to come in at a near 90 degree angle. (''<del>leaving the skis at the door allows direct exit after remounting them</del> - Unfortunately mounting skis indoors fixes the speed to a crawl. Which persists when going outside for at least 1.5 tiles around 'any' building. But can extend to ~8 tiles in some cases.'')

* Bandy towards a player on wilderness skis don't works. But a player on skis can bandy a player that's not on skis.

* A player on skis can's operate a Wheelbarrow. (''assume similar limitations here like while on a [[horse]] or [[kicksled]]'')

* A player on skis makes no moving sounds ... at all. (''annoyingly silent'')

==Appearance==

The appearance of the skis is dictated by the [[Variable Materials|materials used]].

[[File:Variableskis.png|frame|left|20px|Skis made from Plane (Left) and Alder (Right)]]

 

{{Game Development}}

Wild Kale Crop

2024-11-28T07:09:38Z

Xyzzy: seen on red plain

{{infobox metaobj
| skillreq = [[requires::Farming]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Wild Kale Seeds]]
| producedby = [[requires::Wild Kale Seeds]]
| 
}}

[[Category:Seeds]]

{{PAGENAME}} is a [[Category:Primitive crops|primitive crop]] that can be cultivated into some other advanced crops.
*Can be found growing in the wild on certain terrains:
**[[Ox Pasture]], [[Lush Field]], [[Greens Ward]], [[Heath]], [[Grass]], [[Bounty Acre]], [[Lichen Wold]], [[Cloud Range]], [[Red Plain]]
*Can (and eventually will) change into one of the following advanced crops: ...
**[[Green Kale Crop|Green Kale]]
**[[Lettuce Crop|Lettuce]]
(''The 'when' is currently a bit unclear. Other that some randomness is involved'') 
(''The 'what' seems related to the source the initial wild crop was taken'')

{{PAGENAME}} can be planted as a crop. 
* When planted can produce 5 - 15 Wild Kale Seeds and 1 Wild Kale Leaf


==How to Use==

In order to plant {{PAGENAME}}s, you must first [[Terraforming#Plowing|plow]] a tile of earth, then plant the {{PAGENAME}} in the ground. 
There are several ways to do this:
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, LEFT-CLICK and drag the {{PAGENAME}} to the plowed earth and RIGHT-CLICK the desired tile.
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, SHIFT + RIGHT-CLICK the {{PAGENAME}} and hold LEFT-CLICK to drag an area of ground to be planted.

Wild Gourd Crop

2024-11-28T06:48:28Z

Xyzzy: found some on Bounty Acre

{{infobox metaobj
| skillreq = [[requires::Farming]]
| objectsreq = [[requires::Wild Gourd Crop]]
| producedby = [[requires::Wild Gourd Crop]]
| 
}}

[[Category:Seeds]]

{{PAGENAME}} is a [[Category:Primitive crops|primitive crop]] that can be cultivated into some other advanced crops.
*Can be found growing in the wild on certain terrains:
**[[Lush Field]], [[Greens Ward]], [[Scrub Veld]], [[Cloud Range]], [[Grass]], [[Lichen Wold]], [[Dry Flat]], [[Bounty Acre]]
*Can (and eventually will) change into one of the following advanced crops:
**[[Pea Crop|Pea]]
**[[Cucumber Crop|Cucumber]]
**[[Peppercorn Crop|Peppercorn]]
**[[Hops Crop|Hops]]
**[[Grape Crop|Grape]]
**[[Pumpkin Crop|Pumpkin]]
(''The 'when' is currently a bit unclear. Other that some randomness is involved'') 
(''The 'what' seems related to the source the initial wild crop was taken'')

{{PAGENAME}} can be planted as a crop. 
* When planted can produce 1-3 {{PAGENAME}}s


==How to Use==

In order to plant {{PAGENAME}}s, you must first build a [[Trellis]] then RIGHT CLICK on the [[Trellis]] you wish to plant them on. 
There are several ways to do this:
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, LEFT-CLICK and drag the {{PAGENAME}} to the plowed earth and RIGHT-CLICK the desired tile.
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, SHIFT + RIGHT-CLICK the {{PAGENAME}} and hold LEFT-CLICK to drag an area of ground to be planted.

Talk:Kiln

2024-11-04T21:19:36Z

Xyzzy: report error in firing time

This page needs following information:

1) how much ash does a "block of wood" yield?

2) how much ash does a "board" yield?

3) how many branches is one piece of coal equal to?

--[[User:Vatas|Vatas]] ([[User talk:Vatas|talk]]) 10:13, 14 August 2020 (UTC)

The time given for clay jars appears to be about 50% too long. They seem to progress by roughly 1% per minute, suggesting a total a bit under 2 hours, not a tiny bit below 3 hours.

I don't know whether this was a number-of-branches change, or an each-branch-takes-less-time change.

World 16

[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]])

Combat

2024-10-03T01:16:54Z

Xyzzy: /* Your First Combat Deck */

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[Skill]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.

- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence

- Sidestep: blue defence

- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.

- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

Now give the deck a name, and save it.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:

- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree

- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)

- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.

- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

=== '''The combat interface''' ===

Combat

2024-10-03T01:14:46Z

Xyzzy:

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[Skill]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.

- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence

- Sidestep: blue defence

- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.

- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:

- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree

- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)

- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.

- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

=== '''The combat interface''' ===

Combat

2024-10-03T00:29:02Z

Xyzzy: /* Things to Do Before Fighting */

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[Skill]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.

- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence

- Sidestep: blue defence

- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.

- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:

- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree

- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)

- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.

- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

==== '''The combat interface''' ====

Combat

2024-10-02T23:57:23Z

Xyzzy: /* How to Fight */

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[skill|Skills]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.

- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence

- Sidestep: blue defence

- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.

- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:

- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree

- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)

- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.

- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

==== '''The combat interface''' ====

Combat

2024-10-02T23:56:25Z

Xyzzy: /* Your First Combat Deck */ silly UI doesn't want to give me a list, so I need spaces between items in the intended list.

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[skill|Skills]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.

- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence

- Sidestep: blue defence

- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.

- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:
- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree
- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)
- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.
- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

==== '''The combat interface''' ====

Talk:Combat

2024-10-02T23:49:47Z

Xyzzy: Created page with "I started a newbie level explanation of combat here. I think the wiki needs something like this, along with explanations of detailed parts of the system, particularly for players who really aren't into combat. The 2017 newbie guide in the forums covers much of this, but it's getting dated. The wiki format makes it easier to keep the information up to date. I hope others will contribute, particularly those who understand the combat system way better than I do. But plea..."

I started a newbie level explanation of combat here. I think the wiki needs something like this, along with explanations of detailed parts of the system, particularly for players who really aren't into combat.

The 2017 newbie guide in the forums covers much of this, but it's getting dated. The wiki format makes it easier to keep the information up to date.

I hope others will contribute, particularly those who understand the combat system way better than I do. But please keep the terminology simple enough for someone who came to Haven from Farmville.

Combat

2024-10-02T23:45:49Z

Xyzzy: how to start a fight

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[skill|Skills]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.
- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence
- Sidestep: blue defence
- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.
- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are the ant swarms found beside an [[ant hill|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''How to Fight''' ====
You can start a combat by:
- selecting spar on a fellow player and having them agree
- clicking the sword icon (labelled attack) and then some animal. (This also works with players, but if you are new to combat that's a really bad idea. Also, you may not have the skills to attack players.)
- with a bow or sling equipped, clicking the bow icon (labelled shoot). You need the archery skill to even have that icon available. This also works with players and archery targets.
- going too near an aggressive animal or player, who attacks you. The higher your stealth, the less likely aggressive animals are to attack you.

That puts you in the combat interface, which is IMO more than a little confusing.

==== '''The combat interface''' ====

Combat

2024-10-02T23:35:22Z

Xyzzy: details of creating a first combat deck

== '''Combat''' ==
Haven has a rather unique combat system with a user interface that seems very unique to me.

There's an ancient guide for new users in the forums, at https://www.havenandhearth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54070, but it dates back to 2017.

=== '''Basics''' ===
There are two basic types of combat in Haven: ranged and melee.

- "ranged combat" is a gamer's term for combat from a distance, using bows, slings, and similar weapons

- "melee combat" is a gamer's term for combat that's generally up close and personal, using swords, axes, fists, and similar weapons.

When people talk about "combat" in Haven, they generally mean melee combat. If they want to talk about "ranged combat" they'll use both words.

They use basically the same interface, but the melee combat system is far more complicated.

Melee combat can itself be divided into armed and unarmed combat. Haven frequently uses the term "melee combat" to mean "armed combat". The discussion below refers to them both as "melee combat".

=== '''Basics of Melee Combat''' ===
Combat in Haven is multi-layered.

First, you have two combat [[abilities|Abilities]]: melee and unarmed. (There's also a third, called Marksmanship, used for ranged combat.)

Second, you have [[Attributes|attributes]] (stats) like strength, agility, and constitution, all of which affect combat.

Third, you may have armor and/or weapons.

Fourth, you need a "deck" of [[Combat moves|combat moves]]. No matter how many moves you may know, you can only use ones from your current deck. You start with very few moves available to you, and learn more semi-randomly when you kill things.

Fifth, there's a complicated and somewhat undocumented system involving something called "openings". These come in four colours: red, green, yellow, and blue. Each combatant starts with 0 level openings in all colours. Attacks of a particular colour widen (enlarge) the target's openings in that colour. When the target's openings get large enough, damage may finally get through to the target - or perhaps only to that target's armor. There are, however, various defence moves available for each colour; use one of those, and your openings of that colour are reduced.

Sixth, there's an initiative system. Some moves generate initiative points. Others consume initiative points, and can only be done when you have enough points available.

After a certain level of character development, you'll generally fight by doing a bunch of moves to gain initiative, in between moves to close your openings, then an expensive high damage attack that uses initiative, and then repeat. But you don't start out with any of the initiative-creating or initiative-using moves.

Seventh, there's a user-interface that's complicated and confusing. The best way to get used to that interface is to 'spar' with a friend.

=== '''First Steps in Melee Combat''' ===

==== '''Things to Do Before Fighting''' ====
1. Learn the [[hunting|Hunting]] [[skill|Skills]]. You won't be able to attack animals without it.

2. Put enough [[Glossary#Learning_Points|learning points]] into unarmed combat, melee combat, or both to get them to at least 10. Unarmed is more important for a new player.

3. Raise your strength and agility. Strength affects the damage you do. Agility affects both your chance to hit the opponent, and its chance to hit you. One possibly out-dated guide suggests you need 20 in each to handle an ant in a fair fight, 30 in each to handle a bat.

4. Make a combat deck. You do this in the 4th panel of your character sheet.

==== '''Your First Combat Deck''' ====
As a new player, you'll have a very short list of combat moves available. They'll be in alphabetical order; you may find it more useful to look at attacks, defenses, etc. separately.

- Punch: green attack. This will be your mainstay initially.
- Left hook: blue attack.

Drag both of these to one of the numbered slots near the bottom of the panel. Perhaps 1 for punch and 2 for left hook.

- Quick dodge: green defence
- Sidestep: blue defence
- Jump: yellow defence

Put all these on your bar too.

- chin up: useful maneuver, when you aren't using a shield. Put it on your bar.
- to arms: another maneuver

You can eventually have up to 5 of each move on your bar, except that the total is limited to much less than 5 * 10. For now, you have 2 punch and 2 quick dodge available - only 1 of the others. After dragging punch to your bar, with it still selected, click the + beside it. You'll then see 2/2 beneath it on your bar, and 0 beside it in the list, showing you have 2 loaded and no more available. Do the same with quick dodge.

==== '''What to Fight''' ====
When you first start combat, start small. The two easiest targets are [[ants|Ant Hill]] and [[Bat|bats]]. Ants ignore armor, so if you don't have any armor (likely, as a new player), you might as well do ants. They also don't seem to run away when injured.

Whatever you start with, as a new fighter you should make sure to fight only one at a time. (Bats will attack you if you go too close to them, and often roost in groups. And if you 'raid' an anthill, without first killing each ant swarm individually, they'll ''all'' attack you.)

==== '''Precautions''' ====
Always have a way to escape when fighting something new. That might be a cave, a cave exit, a boat, or a mount that can go faster than the animal you are fighting. It's no fun at all to be knocked out by your opponent, spend real life days healing, or worse, get your character killed.

==== '''Cheesing''' ====
There are numerous ways to kill animals easily, without a fair fight. These are commonly referred to in Haven as "Cheesing".

Combat

2024-10-02T23:23:16Z

Xyzzy: various corrections and additions

Combat

2024-10-02T23:15:40Z

Xyzzy: more clarification

Combat

2024-10-02T23:12:11Z

Xyzzy: /* First Steps in Melee Combat */ beginning only

Combat

2024-10-02T22:51:21Z

Xyzzy: Separating ranged and melee combat, afetr a beta reader reported finding the original organization confusing.

Combat

2024-10-02T22:45:34Z

Xyzzy: beginnings of new section

Combat

2024-10-02T22:42:05Z

Xyzzy: /* Basics */ fix typo; add more links.

Combat

2024-10-02T22:32:54Z

Xyzzy: Very start of an introduction to Haven combat, written at a level where it might make sense even to people who hate combat, aren't familiar with many game combat systems, and came to H&H to play Farmville.

Wild Tuber Crop

2024-03-04T20:30:15Z

Xyzzy:

{{infobox metaobj
| skillreq = 
| objectsreq = [[requires::Wild Tuber Crop]]
| producedby = [[requires::Wild Tuber Crop]]
| 
}}

[[Category:Seeds]]

{{PAGENAME}} is a primitive crop that can be cultivated into some other advanced crops.
*Can be found growing in the wild on certain terrains:
**[[Ox pasture]]
**Red Plain
*Can (and eventually will) change into one of the following advanced crops: ...
** [[Carrot]]
(''The 'when' is currently a bit unclear. Other than some randomness is involved. It seems like after three planting cycles, needs to be validated.'') 
(''The 'what' seems related to the source the initial wild crop was taken'')

{{PAGENAME}} can be planted as a crop. 
* When planted can produce 1-3 {{PAGENAME}}s



==How to Use==

In order to plant {{PAGENAME}}s, you must first [[Terraforming#Plowing|plow]] a tile of earth, then plant the {{PAGENAME}} in the ground. 
There are several ways to do this:
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, LEFT-CLICK and drag the {{PAGENAME}} to the plowed earth and RIGHT-CLICK the desired tile.
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, SHIFT + RIGHT-CLICK the {{PAGENAME}} and hold LEFT-CLICK to drag an area of ground to be planted.

Wild Tuber Crop

2024-03-04T20:29:13Z

Xyzzy: Added a terrain where I've seen it; didn't know how to link to the relevant page for the terrain. ~~~~

{{infobox metaobj
| skillreq = 
| objectsreq = [[requires::Wild Tuber Crop]]
| producedby = [[requires::Wild Tuber Crop]]
| 
}}

[[Category:Seeds]]

{{PAGENAME}} is a primitive crop that can be cultivated into some other advanced crops.
*Can be found growing in the wild on certain terrains:
**[[Ox pasture]]
**Red Plain
*Can (and eventually will) change into one of the following advanced crops: ...
* [[Carrot]]
(''The 'when' is currently a bit unclear. Other than some randomness is involved. It seems like after three planting cycles, needs to be validated.'') 
(''The 'what' seems related to the source the initial wild crop was taken'')

{{PAGENAME}} can be planted as a crop. 
* When planted can produce 1-3 {{PAGENAME}}s



==How to Use==

In order to plant {{PAGENAME}}s, you must first [[Terraforming#Plowing|plow]] a tile of earth, then plant the {{PAGENAME}} in the ground. 
There are several ways to do this:
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, LEFT-CLICK and drag the {{PAGENAME}} to the plowed earth and RIGHT-CLICK the desired tile.
*with {{PAGENAME}} in your inventory, SHIFT + RIGHT-CLICK the {{PAGENAME}} and hold LEFT-CLICK to drag an area of ground to be planted.

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:24:03Z

Xyzzy:

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal effects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the "possibly outdated notes" section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
** You can plow or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A mound bed with herbs growing in it will not decay until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and eventually disappear.
** If the mound bed with herbs is ready to disappear, it will do so when you harvest the herbs.
** This is probably useful for making sure mound beds don't disappear during winter. (It appears that mound beds planted in later autumn can be expected to last through winter even without herbs. But perhaps there's some randomness.)
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch their season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:22:03Z

Xyzzy: removed the stub template

{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal affects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the notes section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
** You can plow or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A mound bed with herbs growing in it will not decay until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and eventually disappear.
** If the mound bed with herbs is ready to disappear, it will do so when you harvest the herbs.
** This is probably useful for making sure mound beds don't disappear during winter. (It appears that mound beds planted in later autumn can be expected to last through winter even without herbs. But perhaps there's some randomness.)
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch their season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:21:16Z

Xyzzy: more details added

{{stub}}
{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal affects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the notes section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

The first time you plant herbs in a new mound bed, you need to first water the mound bed.

Replanting in the same mound bed doesn't require re-watering.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
** You can plow or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* A mound bed with herbs growing in it will not decay until the herbs are harvested. Without the herbs, it will decay and eventually disappear.
** If the mound bed with herbs is ready to disappear, it will do so when you harvest the herbs.
** This is probably useful for making sure mound beds don't disappear during winter. (It appears that mound beds planted in later autumn can be expected to last through winter even without herbs. But perhaps there's some randomness.)
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch their season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:14:16Z

Xyzzy: added an additional detail

{{stub}}
{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal affects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the notes section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
** You can plow or pave land that has a mound bed built on it.
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch their season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:07:22Z

Xyzzy: fixed spelling error

{{stub}}
{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal affects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the notes section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch their season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Mound Bed

2024-01-24T03:05:51Z

Xyzzy: Added what I have discovered about how mound beds work; reorganized to try to help other readers avoids the mistakes I made with my mound beds this spring.

{{stub}}
{{infobox metaobj
| caption = The fecund warmth of the Mound Bed radiates the life of summer around it. Within the radius of a Mound Bed, winter holds no sway.
|
| xsize = 1
| ysize = 3
|
| skillreq = (unknown)
| objectsreq = [[requires::Mulch]] x12, [[requires::Straw]] x6
| repwith = [[Mulch]]
|
| lift = No
}}

[[Category:Objects]]
[[Category:Structures]]

{{GM|$Build|$Mound Bed}}

'''Mound Beds''' have two main functions.

1) They provide a radius of ~20 tiles which prevents the normal effects of [[Winter]].

2) Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

== Season Changing Effects ==
In the area affected by a mound bed:

1) Snow will not stick to the ground in winter. (Not sure, but don't think it snows at all.)

2) Normal affects of winter on field and trellis crops do not occur. You can continue to farm normally all winter.

3) The effects on trees are weird and a bit counter-intuitive.

If a mound bed is placed in late autumn, the area covered remains in autumn for purposes of tree growth until the mound bed is destroyed, or expires. This includes any trees planted, even those planted the following spring.

This means you may want to destroy any mound beds affecting your tree farm on the first day of spring, before planting any trees, in order to get the spring bonus to tree growth speed. (Or maybe not, if the particular tree species you are growing don't produce their fruit in spring.)

See also the notes section below.

== Herb Growth ==
Anything (i.e. herbs) that can be planted in a [[Garden Pot]] can also be planted in a Mound Bed.

The quality of the herbs produced will be the same as that of the herbs planted. This can be quite useful.

== Notes ==
* The radius affected by a mound bed only shows when building it; the only other way to determine the area affected by a given mound bed is to wait for winter, and observe where snow doesn't stick.
* A mound bed has no hitbox that prevents unit collision (you can walk over it) but you can't build anything on top of it ("That site is occupied.")
* Mound beds have no quality; there is thus no advantage to using good materials when building them.
* Although the snow melting effect of mound beds will cross normal mini-map borders. It will not cross [[Glossary#Maps and Tiles|super-grid]] borders.

== Possibly Outdated Notes ==
* Tree inside a mound bed range will not switch there season state (''so far''). So autumn trees stay in autumn mode. While trees already in winter mode also stay in winter mode (''+no seeds regeneration'')
** Currently there seems to be a bug that does weird/inconsistent tree-season-mode switching when the mound bed becomes inactive or is removed.
** Trees planted inside the mount bed range will start in (?) season mode.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Mound Bed-Bounding box.png|Mound Bed bounding box.
</gallery>

{{Game Development}}

Talk:Unfired Treeplanter's Pot

2023-10-15T18:27:39Z

Xyzzy: Created page with "The prereq skill for this is NOT pottery, or not just pottery. I have pottery, but when I discovered (ball) clay I only got recipes for clay jar, pot, and urn. Possibly it requires Plant Lore? --~~~~"

The prereq skill for this is NOT pottery, or not just pottery. I have pottery, but when I discovered (ball) clay I only got recipes for clay jar, pot, and urn. Possibly it requires Plant Lore?

--[[User:Xyzzy|Xyzzy]] ([[User talk:Xyzzy|talk]]) 18:27, 15 October 2023 (UTC)